2006 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese 'Rotlay'

Ten days later, the Selbachs picked their 2006 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese Rotlay from fruit that was almost entirely raisined in this sheltered site just above the water line and regularly shrouded in morning fog. The two previous harvests of this precious parcel had also been en bloc – in order as it were to preserve the essence of the vintage in a single site. So this year – when another approach was not an option – the crew was practiced in the task. Peaches, persimmons, vanilla cream, marzipan, mocha, and honey make for a strikingly rich display, yet there is clarity and refreshment as well. Selbach let the wine ferment to 9.5% alcohol to encourage body and structure and mitigate the superficial sweetness that encumbers many 2006 Auslesen – including at this address – and the approach succeeded brilliantly. The length of this wine alone – not to mention its complexity – demonstrates why it is one of Germany’s single greatest Riesling locations, and in 10-25 years, that demonstration will be even more convincing. The harvest almost filled the month of October, but by the standards of this large estate with holdings stretching across four communes, that is (in Johannes Selbach’s words) “super quick” and volume was down 30% from the already small 2005 harvest. Musts were sometimes fined with bentonite but never with charcoal. “This is my year of superlatives,” says Selbach. “When I think of my children and their children, and about a wine one could open in a hundred years and say ‘Wow!’ one dreams of wines from great historical vintages like 1911, 1921, 1953 ... and that in one’s own lifetime one might experience and harvest wines that would number among them. For me, that’s 2006.” Selbach took an interest in Pinot Blanc for sparkling wine, since there are some promising old vines in cooler side locations of Zeltingen’s Schlossberg. But he now thinks the fruit will probably always be too ripe for that purpose, whereas the still results are themselves promising. There are a few regional importers of certain Selbach wines, but the majority (and those whose prices are noted above) are Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300