2009 Pfalz Spatburgunder Kammerberg Grosses Gewachs

Medium to deep plummy red with purple rim. Prominent aromas of roasted chestnuts and hazelnuts still leave enough room for a fragrance of ripe cherries to show its mettle. It takes an abundance of fruit to penetrate the firm tannic grip, but cherries and plums persevere to establish a ripe and juicy presence, and are at the beginning of forming a harmonious partnership with the toasted and smoky notes of perfectly seasoned French oak. Becker’s Pinots have never had a reputation as blushing maidens, and lovers of the gentler and more perfumed style of Spätburgunder may throw the towel, but in sheer substance and concentration these Grosse Gewächse are hard to match. (MS)