2003 Erdener Pralat Auslese Goldkapsel

(for 375 ml.) This smells like a spiced orange liqueur. Honey, malt, nut oils, licorice and orange liqueur saturate the palate. Quite sleek and refined, juicy and bright, this represents Schug's new approach to Pralat and captures a clarity, minerality and refreshment not normally associated with the site at this address. Mouthwatering acids and a touch of tartness nicely balance the high sugar. A terrific chordal finish is in evidence here, including everything from nutty, honeyed low tones through lightly caramelized pit fruits to a brash treble of citricity. (A long gold capsule Auslese from Pralat, like the TBA, was still fermenting at the time of my visit.) 2 stars.