2012 Norheimer Dellchen Grosses Gewachs

What do we expect from a truly great grand cru? Not just fruit, minerality, body, substance, texture and great length, but that all these attributes complement each other in great harmony rather than compete for individual attention. The Dellchen 2012, just as many of its predecessors, shows great elegance and finesse, even at this youthful stage. Grapefruit and orange do get a look in, but so does the produce of more local orchards, and what they have in common is a wonderful freshness of flavour, not overripe, but just to the point. But there is far more to the Dellchen than just a basket of fruit: Crystalline clarity of expression, animating acidity and a fine edge of minerality perfect an outstanding performance. (MS)