2010 Vouvray Sec Clos du Bourg

Noel Pinguet's penultimate vintage here and very delicious too. It bursts with fruit – rather quince-like fruit – and life, so much so that the trademark high acidity of a young Vouvray is rather difficult to discern. There is breadth, a hint of toastiness (though certainly not oak), and probably a tiny bit of residual sugar here but you don't notice that either. It's just a beautifully clean, pure expression of Chenin Blanc in its homeland and in the hands of a master. Drink this as an aperitif or with white meats or fish.  (JR)