1998 Niederberg Helden Auslese 9 (1 Star)

Ripe peach, mango and honey aromas. Fatter, creamier and glossier in the mouth than its predecessors, its tropical fruit shaded by botrytis and a Chartreuse-like sweet herbal note. Yet this remains shapely and fine in flavors throughout. Fine, pure, nobly botrytized and slatey in the finish, this is almost what I would call "long gold capsule Auslese" in character. Harvested from a single parcel in the first days of November. Two "two-star" Auslesen included something of a solo appearance by botrytis (A.P. #12) and a creamy, refined auction bottling (A.P. #11).